Wood Work: Repair or Replace

Wood repair or replacement is a very important part of the painting process. Because of this, we offer an in-house woodworking team to complete the work before painting begins. It’s important to know that paint and caulk is not formulated to stop continued deterioration of wood. We give our paint jobs the best possible chance to perform at a high level with a solid foundation (no rotten boards).

When to Replace Wood Boards:

  1. If the crack in the board is too long or too thick.
  2. If the color of the wood underneath the paint is visible and is dark brown or black in appearance then this usually is a sign that the material is damaged and rotten.
  3. If the wood or trim is spongy and soft to the touch.
  4. If chunks or pieces of wood are missing.
  5. If the siding or trim is peeling away from the surface.

Wood failure on exterior boards or trim is primarily due to moisture. This accounts for about 90% of the damages we run into.

This can happen for a numbers of reasons including:

  1. The age of the wood.
  2. Failure of or incomplete caulking.
  3. Not keeping up with the maintenance of the home, i.e. painting and repairing caulk.
  4. Moisture seeping in from old windows or doors.
  5. Snow being allowed to build up on the sides of homes or on rooflines.
  6. Water from sprinkler heads hitting the sides of the homes.
  7. Plants growing onto/into the exterior trim and allowing water to enter.
  8. Poorly functioning, clogged, or damaged gutters
  9. Improperly sealed/flashed roofs or windows and doors

*We typically see most water damage on the north sides of the home or on severely shaded aspects on roof lines and walls.
*Deteriorated wood must be replaced for the Vivax Pro Painting all-inclusive warranty to be valid. That specific area will not be covered if the boards are not replaced.

Terminology/Dimensions:

Fascia: Trim that the gutters are installed against and that goes along the roofline of a home.

Soffit: Runs horizontally under the eaves and rooflines of homes and can be under overhangs on decks, entries, etc.

Threshold: The bases of door frames (we do not replace these).

Window or Door Jambs: Runs horizontally and vertically to make up the structure of windows and doors. (We do not replace these.

Corbels: Trim that extends out from the walls and supports the fascia or other overhangs.

Post/Column: Rectangular/square boards that support deck or entry roofs (traditionally 4×4 or 6×6.) This can be a solid piece of wood or framed and wrapped with trim.

Belly Band: Trim that runs horizontally on the sides of homes to break up large areas of siding.

Ice Dam: A type of trim that is usually installed above belly bands to prevent water from standing on top of trim.

Lattice: Thin slats of wood that make up a grid pattern (traditionally running at an angle) found under decks and porches.

Lap Siding: Siding that overlaps lower boards.

Reveal: Amount of lap siding that is showing after applied to house.

Sheet Siding: Large sheets of siding usually in 4×8 or 4×9 sheets which can be smooth, or textured and have grooves running 8 or 12 inches apart along the length of the sheet.

Panel Siding: Siding that may look a lot like lap siding but is actually 2-4 courses in one panel.

Garage Flashing: Vinyl or wood trim that goes along the inside of garage door jambs and has a piece of flat rubber to seal the door when closed.

Brick Molding: Trim that can sometimes be found around windows and doors and garage doors. Usually 1 ¾” deep by 2 ¼” wide.

Hardie Board: There are many different brands but it is a cement-based trim or siding that resists water damage better than other types of materials.

Pro Trim: Has many different brands and is essentially a fiber based board that is composite.

Cedar/Redwood: Real wood that has natural water resistant qualities in the wood.

Hand rail: Boards that make up the “fence” going around decks and entries.

Spindles: Usually a 2×2 vertical board and provides the fence look on handrails.

Flashing: Thin metal that is usually installed over windows, doors, and belly band to prevent moisture from getting behind trim.

Miter Cuts: Cuts that are made at an angle so the end of the board isn’t seen.

Butt Cuts: Cuts that are easiest to make but the end of the boards are usually visible.

Bead Board: A type of soffit with rounded grooves running down the board.

T-111: A type of sheet siding that is usually real wood with square grooves running anywhere from 4-12” apart.

Batts: Traditionally 1×2 trim boards that run vertically over smooth or textured sheet siding

Radius Windows/Doors: Rounded or “half moon” trim above windows or doors

House Wrap: The name brand is Tyvek. House wrap comes in rolls and is made up of re-enforced nylon. It provides a water resistant barrier underneath exterior trim and siding and allows the house to breath by pulling moisture away from the walls.